Collezioni 144 (Spring/Summer 2011)

Cover image and contents
taken from Collezioni Donna

The latest issue of Collezioni Donna is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

http://www.logos.info/

Contents:

Exhibitions

• Takashi Murakami
• Alice Springs
• Reporters sans frontières
• Drawing fashion
• Moebius
• Young fashion photographers now
• Mario Testino

Objects of desire

• Vhernier_jewelry masterpieces
• John Galliano and his treasure island

Protagonists

• Barbara I Gongini
• Zegna Baruffa
• Weill
• Edward Achour
• Sarar
• The people of the labyrinths
• Giemme BrandsCorporate
• Atil Kutoglu
• Rosa Rosam Paris
• Katharina Hovman
• Christophe Guillarmé
• Max Mazza
• Maglificio Ripa

Fashionable places

• Pantone hotel_Brussels
• London_Louis Vuitton
• Paris_Ralph Lauren

News

• London_Central Saint Martins
• Lingerie_Ermanno Scervino, La Perla, A.F. Vandevorst
• Magazine

What to read

• Emilio Pucci

Paris

• Behind the scene
• Shirts
• Jumpsuits
• Drapes
• Flowing pants
• Denim
• Dark soul
• Mesh
• Zip
• Leather
• Colours
• Stripes
• Pleats and plissé
• Natural
• Lace
• Prints
• Jungle
• Slit
• Metallics
• Night
• Crystals
• Fringes and feathers
• Thirties

Monographs

• Charlotte Sparre
• Wunderkind
• Talbot Runhof
• Jack Guisso

Lookbooks

• What's hot in the cities
• Shadowconnected
• Rundholz
• Vivetta
• Maria Grazia Severi
• Maria Luisa
• Tô Long-Nam
• Anett Röstel
• Bernhard Willhelm
• Carven
• Georges Hobeika Signature
• Eymeric François
• Zuhair Murad
• Maxime Simoens
• Caroline Seikaly

London

• A blast of creative energy
• Prints
• Dolls
• Plissé
• Lace
• Fringes
• Masculine attire
• Leather

Monographs

• Spijkers en Spijkers

London Lookbooks

• What's hot in the city
• Righteous
• Maria Francesca Pepe
• Ann-Sophie Back Atelje

On stage

• Beachwear
• Colours, tropical, blossom, sporty, ethnic, Africa

Kyiv

• Here and now
• Przhonskaya
• Alena Oleynik
• Ludmila Kislenko
• Larisa Lobanova
• Annette Görtz
• Olena Molchanova
• Bekh

Poland

• Fashionphilosophy
• Fashion week Poland

Fashion weeks

• Seoul fashion week
• Russian fashion week
• Madrid_Cibeles fashion week
• Couture fashion week

Wallpaper* (December 2010)

The latest issue of Wallpaper* is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

The Hat Magazine Issue 47 (Oct/Nov/Dec 2010)

http://www.thehatmagazine.com/

The latest issue of The Hat Magazine is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

Contents:

NEWS

• Diary
• News and Views

INTERVIEW

• A conversation with Jos and Marly Verhoeven of ID Hats

FESTIVALS

• 18th Estivales du Chapeaux - Septfonds
• The 1st Bridport Hat Festival

TRADE FAIRS

• Reports from the major European shows for s/s 2011

COMPETITIONS

• HAT Designer of the Year 2010 - The Grand Finale

RETAIL SCENE

• T Snook Hatters in Bridport
• The Hat Gallery M/V, new opening in London

SHEEPSKIN FEATURE

• Owen Barry Ltd
• Nursey & Son Ltd
• Handfield Accessories Ltd

COMPANY PROFILE

• Hoedenmallen Van der Broek the blockmakers

THMXs - ACCESSORIES

• Reports from London Fashion Week and Origin

CHRISTMAS PRESENTS

• Suggestions for a Hatty Christmas

FORECAST

• Fabrics, Colours and Trimmings for a/w 2011/12

INSPIRATION

• Designer Sketchbook - Inspired by the animals
• Workroom Technique - Working with Racello braid

DIRECTORY

• The HAT Directory - Source those suppliers here

Fashion News (December 2010)

The latest issue of Fashion News is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

Fashion Theory Vol. 14 No. 4 (December 2010)

The latest issue of Fashion Theory is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

Contents:

• Letter from the Editor Valerie Steele
• Street Style and Its Meaning in Postwar Japan Hiroshi Narumi
• Uniformed Rebellion, Fabricated Identity: A Study of Social History of Red Guards in Military Uniforms During the Chinese Cultural Revolution and Beyond Li Li
• How Does Vogue Negotiate Age?: Fashion, the Body, and the Older Woman Julia Twigg
• The Portrayal of Beauty in Women's Fashion Magazines Brian Moeran
• Extended Review Le Steele Gothique Peter McNeil and Masafumi Monden
• Exhibition Review The Man Who Dressed Marilyn Monroe: William Travilla - The Lost Collection Ian Wilson
• Introduction to Book Reviews Peter McNeil
• Book Review Samuel Richardson: Dress and Discourse; and Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women's Fiction Clair Hughes
• Book Review Edith Wharton and the Making of Fashion Lauren Indvik
• Book Review Fashion in Fiction: Text and Clothing in Literature, Film and Television Elizabeth Wilson
• Book Review Japanese Fashion: A Cultural History Peter McNeil

Fashion Practice Vol. 2 No. 2 (November 2010)

The latest issue of Fashion Practice is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

Contents:

• Editorial Marilyn DeLong
• Mass-customized Target Market Sizing: Extending the Sizing Paradigm for Improved Apparel Fit Susan Ashdown and Suzanne Loker
• Leveraging Niche Fashion Markets through Mass Customization, Co-design, Style Advice, and New Technology: A Study of Gay Aesthetics and Website Design Frances Ross
• Technology, Tradition, and Creativity in Apparel Designers: A Study of Designers in Three US Companies Elizabeth Buy and MyungHee Sohn
• Designing from Dumpsters: Cambodians Start at Grassroots with Fashion Katalin Medvedev
• Interview Immersed in the Creative Process: Robert Hillestad is Interviewed by Marilyn DeLong
• Comment Slow Fashion: An Invitation for Systems Change Kate Fletcher
• Book Review China Fashion: Conversations with Designers by Christine Tsui; reviewed by Juanjuan Wu

The Design Process

The design process (2nd edition) by Karl Aspelund is a new book that is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

Karl Aspelund guides students through the exploration of the seven stages of The Design Process.  Beginning at Inspiration, readers travel though Identification, Conceptualization, Exploration/Refinement, Definition/Modeling, and Communication on the way to Production.  The tour is enhanced by the accompanying Perspectives of designers who travel parallel paths in the design of fashion, interiors, industrial and consumer products, and public art projects.  End-of-chapter exercises help students move their own design projects from the World of Imagination to the World of Objects.  Appendices recommend readings for further exploration and serve as refreshers on design elements and principles; notable designers, architects, and artists; trend analysis; and influences on design from the mid-1800s to the first decade of the twenty-first century.

New to this edition:

• Expanded discussion of sustainability is integrated into the text so that readers will routinely incorporate consideration of this issue into all stages of their design projects.
• Full-color illustrations engage visual learners with memorable images of the concepts discussed in the text.
• New and updated Perspective features explain how designers address current needs and constraints.

-- back cover

Ragtrader (19 November 2010)

The latest issue of Ragtrader is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

Contents include:

• HOW: Many stores will Zara open locally?
• WHAT: Accessories brand is rolling out up to 100 stores in 2011?
• WHICH: States are set for a retail development boom?
  
  
  

Fashion Trends Forecast (Summer 2012)

The latest issue of Fashion Trends Forecast is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

Collezioni Donna No. 143 (Spring/Summer 2011)

Cover image and contents
taken from Collezioni Donna

The latest issue of Collezioni Donna is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

http://www.logos.info/

Contents:

• Events Dream creations
• Exhibitions Democratic camera -- Eyes wide open -- The dream approaches -- Indescreet beauty -- Chaos and Classicism -- The artist behind the camera -- Crazy hats
• Protagonists Gsm -- Olsen -- Addy van den Krommenacker -- Methap Elaidi -- Susanne Wiebe -- Danivè Mode -- Sergei Grinko -- Nakkna -- German fashion protagonists -- Anja Gockel London
• News Exploring new Horizons -- Rising stars_emerging talents
• Fairs Madrid_Simm -- White_Milano -- Amsterdam_Modefabriek -- Fashion House -- Italian Suite

S/S 2011 Fashion Shows

Milano

• Urban magnetism Colours -- Flowing pants -- Natural -- Dresses -- Floral prints -- Denim -- Damask -- Leather -- Knitwear -- Openwork -- Calf lengths -- Stripes -- White -- Prints -- Lace -- Animalier -- Fringes -- Crystals -- Night

Lookbooks

• What's hot in the cities -- Cold Case -- Alessia Xoccato -- Michel Mayer -- San Andrès Milano -- Caira Design -- Ilaria Nistri -- D. A. Daniele Alessandrini -- dMajuscule -- Naughty Dog

New York

• Democratic revolution -- Lace -- Pants -- Denim -- Overcoats -- Knitwear -- Leather -- Drapes -- Prints -- Natural -- Colours -- White -- Longuette -- Gold -- Night

New York Lookbooks

• What's hot in the city -- Tom Scott -- Gary Graham -- Nary Manivong -- Jonathan Simkhai -- Logan Neitzel -- Tess Giberson -- Kaelen

Fashion weeks

• 080 Barcelona -- Valencia Fashion Week -- Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin -- Düsseldorf_Igedo fashion shows

On stage

• Northern Europe -- Copenhagen fashion week -- Ciff -- Gallery and CPH Vision -- Norwegian fashion institute -- Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Stockholm -- Lookbooks -- Jan Ahlgren -- Barbara I Gongini -- Azizi -- A.M. Victoria -- Kurl Project -- Vita

Lookbooks

• Barbara Schwarzer -- Minx -- Trixi Schober -- Asandri

Designing and Patternmaking for Stretch Fabrics

Designing and patternmaking for stretch fabrics by Keith Richardson is a new book that is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

"Stretch fabrics are more popular than ever, used for Juicy Couture's sweats and in the trendy, ready-to-wear styles found at H&M. But stretch fabrics have long been a staple of designer fashion as well - from Missoni's colorful knits to Donna Karan's basics. Designing and Patternmaking for Stretch Fabrics provides the design student or working designer with the essential information for understanding the specifics of knit fabrics and the patternmaking process for different garments. Fibers, dyes, treatments, and fabric sources are discussed, along with the principles of sizing and measuring for women's, men's, petite, plus, and half sizes. Chapters focusing on particular garments begin with a draft of a sloper block. Numerous illustrations and diagrams demonstrate the effects of draping, gathering, shirring, ruffling, and making adjustments as needed to flatter the wearer. Practice garments will put students' skills and creativity to work - everything they need to turn an ordinary garment into one of original designer quality." -- back cover

Ragtrader (5 November 2010)

The latest issue of Ragtrader is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

Contents include:

• WHO: Will take on Queenspark.
• HOW: SG will grow.
• WHERE: Sambag will roll out.

Selvedge Issue 36 (September/October 2010)

The latest issue of Selvedge is now available for loan from the Learning Centre.

Contents:

INDULGE textiles to buy, collect or simply admire

• Noteworthy Festivals and shows not to be missed.
• Clear purpose Give us the tools, and we will finish the job... Editor-in-Chief Polly Leonard found beautiful sculptural textile tools at the Convergence conference in Albuquerque.
• Symbiotic Anthropologie fill their shops with carefully chosen goods, one-off pieces and the fruits of their relationship with independent designers.
• How to... Be part of The Campaign for Wool by making a pretty knitted rug with Rowan's Purelife British Sheep breeds.
• Fabric swatch A new feature on obscure fabrics, No. 1 serve Sarah Jane Downing tracks down early references to this once commonplace wool cloth. Illustrated by Debbie Powell.

INDUSTRY from craft to commerce

• Returning to the fold Wool is a fibre with friends in high places and has plans to make more... Liz Farrelly finds out why high profile figures such as HRH The Prince of Wales are championing a wool revival and how you can help.
• London Design Festival Diaries at the ready as Origin, Decorex, 100% Design, Tent London et al return to the capital to showcase new talent and favourites from the past.

ANECDOTE textiles that touch our lives

• Scrap of a thing 18th century textile tokens from the Foundling Museum. Shelly Goldsmith uncovers the tiny textile fragments that are our only tangible link to the thousands of unwanted babies that passed through the Foundling Hospital.
• Faithful flock The architectural splendour of the wool churches. Sarah Jane Downing surveys the links between the wool industry and some of Britain's most beautiful churches.

CONCEPT textiles in fine art

• Jones the book Drawing at the National Wool Museum, Carmarthenshire, Wales made by artist in residence, Julia Griffiths Jones.

ATTIRE critical reporting of fashion trends

• Life's Werk: Eley Kishimoto ""Collaboration" says Mark Eley, "was in our DNA from the moment we met." Cynthia Rose finds out how these fashion designers keep things fresh.
• Foraging for fashion Gönül Paksoy approaches art from a different angle, incorporating all that she knows about science, cookery and design.

COHABIT stunning interiors beautifully photographed

• Good Housekeeping Ahead of the opening of Gudren Sjoden's first London shop this autumn, Cia Wedin is invited to discover more about her home and her ethical approach to business. Photographs by Anna Kern.

GLOBAL travel destinations and ethnographic textiles

• Vera Neumann President of the Vera Company, Susan Seid reflects on the art of an American icon Susan has bought Vera's work to a wider audience through collaboration with Anthropologie nd a new coffee table book, 'Vera: The Art and Life of an Icon' We have six copies to give away.

EVENTS a chance to meet with like-minded people

• Join Selvedge for a private view of the Threads of Feeling exhibition at the Foundling Museum on the 26th October. The evening will include two guest speakers, curator and author John Styles and artist Shelly Goldsmith.

INFORM the latest news, reviews and exhibition listings

• bias/contributors A letter from the editor-in-chief and comments from contributors.
• news Textile news: Shelley Goldsmith, Rough Linen, Toast, Pendleton USA, The Hill-Side, Zenzulu, The Textile Society, The Woolsack, Wendy Cramer, OCtavi, Woolrich, The Hermitage Amsterdam and Fleetwood Fox.
• miscellany Felt: A pressing matter.
• Selvedge at the Big Chill A big thank you to our sponsors and those that took part in a bird making workshop this summer.
• international listings Exhibitions, fairs, and events.
• read In the Loop: Knitting Now, Fashion Illustration 1930-1970 from Harper's Bazaar
• view Horrockses Fashions, The Shape of THings, Ainsley Hillard, Lace in Fashion
• resources Websites and reading lists for those who want to know more about the Roving Issue.
• coming next The Evergreen Issue: Age-old traditions and fresh ideas. Eco gifts, pantomime and Santa suits.

The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion - Vol. 10 Global Perspectives

The Berg encyclopedia of world dress and fashion is a new 10 volume reference resource available for use within the Learning Centre.

Volume 10: Global Perspectives

"Global Perspectives provides a transnational overview of dress within the global arena. "Intelligent" textiles and the impact of recent developments in nanotechnology are addressed alongside such popular culture phenomena as "cosplay," based on Japanese comics and animation, and virtual worlds, where avatars provide opportunities for multiple, shifting identities. There are broad overview articles on the fashion industry and its impact worldwide, secondhand clothing, and also ecofashion, which has evolved out of concern for ethical consumption. Such varied topics as beads and perfumes are situated within a global context, and there is an informative section on dress and fashion resources worldwide, including museum collections. A fitting conclusion to this monumental major work on dress, Global Perspectives provides an important cross-cultural overview of human dress and adornment across the globalized world." -- back cover

You can also check out the online companion to this publication through the Learning Centre catalogue or via this link: Berg Fashion Library

The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion - Vol. 9 East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus

The Berg encyclopedia of world dress and fashion is a new 10 volume reference resource available for use within the Learning Centre.

Volume 9: East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus

"From the Baltic to the Balkans, and from Siberia to the Caucasus, the lands covered in this volume contain a multitude of cultures with rich and distinctive dress and textile traditions. However, tradition has not been the only factor shaping dress in the region. The contrast between ethnic and urban dress provides a revealing lens through which to consider individual and cultural identities across the region. Attitudes towards dress have also been shaped by socialism and its demise, as the former "Eastern bloc" states have undergone massive upheaval. This landmark volume is the first major reference work to provide a comprehensive overview of dress within this vast and complex region. Broad surveys of individual countries are supplemented with case studies focusing more narrowly on people, practices, and objects to provide both range and depth. The long tradition of exquisite embroidery is highlighted. The volume also has articles on the influence of the Ottoman Empire on this part of Europe, a discussion of Roma dress, and a "Snapshot" on Balkan bandits. A pioneering, major reference work, East Europe, Russia, and the Caucasus also places dress within the political and sociocultural contexts that have shaped people and nations in this region." -- back cover

You can also check out the online companion to this publication through the Learning Centre catalogue or via this link: Berg Fashion Library

The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion - Vol. 8 West Europe

The Berg encyclopedia of world dress and fashion is a new 10 volume reference resource available for use within the Learning Centre.

Volume 8: West Europe

"This volume examines the complex strands that make up the European tradition of dress and fashion. Europe's varied landscapes and climates have influenced ways of dressing, as have continental and regional historical movements. West Europe, while emphasizing the global importance of European dress and fashion since 1800, provides information about the earlier contexts for their development. It also provides an analysis of haute couture as well as concise introductions to ethnic dress traditions and developments in the making and selling of clothing. Mainstream topics such as the changing shape of the female form are analyzed alongside current issues: ethics in the fashion industry, intelligent textiles, and subcultural dress, for example. Articles are illustrated by images ranging from exquisite couture creations to caricatures lampooning the extravagant follies of history's "fashion victims." This volume is the key reference work for everyone wishing to discover more about West Europe's seminal role in both fashion history and the shaping of cultural identities." -- back cover

You can also check out the online companion to this publication through the Learning Centre catalogue or via this link: Berg Fashion Library

The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion - Vol. 7 Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands

The Berg encyclopedia of world dress and fashion is a new 10 volume reference resource available for use within the Learning Centre.

Volume 7: Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands

"Collectively, the Pacific Islands, Australia, and New Zealand represent a varied and culturally complex region. It is home to peoples leading time-honored ways of life, thos gradually accepting cultural changes, and those inhabiting industrialized society and engaging with all the trappings of the modern world. The influence of colonialism, trade, Aboriginal and Pacific Islander heritage, and the significance of the environment on bodily adornment are some of the topics thoroughly addressed in this volume, which provides general overviews of the dress practices of the region's various peoples. "Snapshots" focus on specialist topics relating to traditional dress as well as recent phenomena, such as the performance fashions of pop star and style icon Kylie Minogue. Throughout, articles are supported by a significant number of previously unpublished photographs. Australia, New Zealand, and the Pacific Islands will be of enduring value to anyone curious to learn more about dress in this fascinating region." -- back cover

You can also check out the online companion to this publication through the Learning Centre catalogue or via this link: Berg Fashion Library

The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion - Vol. 6 East Asia

The Berg encyclopedia of world dress and fashion is a new 10 volume reference resource available for use within the Learning Centre.

Volume 6: East Asia

"East Asia covers an area that is home to a quarter of the world's population. This volume provides a comprehensive overview of the region, followed by separate sections on China, Korea, and Japan. The section on China covers the Han people, China's ethnic minority, as well as most of China's fifty-five minority groups. Festive dress, China's reputation for distinctive hairstyling, and a wide range of adornments linked to ancient beliefs and traditions are all covered. Overviews of Tibet, Mongolia, and Taiwan are included as well. Traditional and modern aspects of Korean dress are explored in depth, and the importance of the textile and garment industries is highlighted. Street and youth fashion, the history of the kimono, dress and masks for Noh and Kabuki performances, and the work of textile artists who are masters of traditional craft are all covered in the section on Japan. Historical backgrounds and accounts of ancient archaeological evidence are also provided. Accompanied by photographs supplying stunning pictorial evidence, East Asia offers a compelling overview of a land where age-old tradition coexists with bustling, technologically advanced modern states." -- back cover

You can also check out the online companion to this publication through the Learning Centre catalogue or via this link: Berg Fashion Library

The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion - Vol. 5 Central and Southwest Asia

The Berg encyclopedia of world dress and fashion is a new 10 volume reference resource available for use within the Learning Centre.

Volume 5: Central and Southwest Asia

"Central and Southwest Asia explores dress history and practices throughout the vast area linking Central Asia to the Eastern Mediterranean. The birthplace of three world religions, this is a region shaped by cultural legacies: Arabs, Iranians, and Ottoman Turks have all left stunning and enduring artistic forms. This volume is the only major work to cover the full range of dress across this region, from the historic Silk Road, which played a vital role in linking dress and textile traditions in the area, to topics rarely before investigated, such as Kurdish dress, the role of the hajj market, and Afghan fashion shows. The region's location as a bridge between East and West is also explored, as are the cultural and symbolic meanings of Islamic dress and the West's romantic fascination with Orientalism. Rare photographs provide fascinating visual evidence of the region's rich and complex history." -- back cover

You can also check out the online companion to this publication through the Learning Centre catalogue or via this link: Berg Fashion Library

The Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion - Vol. 4 South Asia and Southeast Asia

The Berg encyclopedia of world dress and fashion is a new 10 volume reference resource available for use within the Learning Centre.

Volume 4: South Asia and Southeast Asia

"South Asia and Southeast Asia boast a large number of diverse ethnic groups, each with their own language and cultural practices. Here dress traditions may be rooted in ancient, mystical beliefs. Textiles, many spectacularly embellished, very often have symbolic significance as visual markers of cultural and religious identity. South Asia and Southeast Asia explores this land of sharp contrasts, from the glamour of Bollywood to the vast garment industry, from ritual cross-dressing to Vietnamese fashion designers, and from Bhutanese wedding costumes to Mahatma Gandhi's use of cloth as a powerful political statement. In so doing, it provides an enticing overview of a region of magnificently rich clothing and textile traditions." -- back cover

You can also check out the online companion to this publication through the Learning Centre catalogue or via this link: Berg Fashion Library